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  • How to Create an Indoor Composter?

How to Create an Indoor Composter?


The topic of composting is becoming increasingly popular, yet many people are unsure how to get started. In this article, we would like to provide some guidance specifically for those who compost indoors, on how to create their own vermicomposter and how to use it.


Date: June 19, 2023 | By: Viktória Selmeczy | Views: 987

How to Create an Indoor Composter?

The topic of composting is becoming increasingly popular, yet many people are unsure how to get started. In this article, we would like to provide some guidance specifically for those who compost indoors, on how to create their own vermicomposter and how to use it.

The essence of worm composting is transforming kitchen green waste (fruit, vegetables, eggshells, and other organic materials) into valuable, nutrient-rich humus with the help of earthworms, effectively turning it into compost (or potting soil if you will). 

Interested in learning how? Then carefully read the following guide.

Placement of the compost:

  • It can be placed on a balcony, in a garage, hallway, yard, kitchen, or anywhere that can accommodate a bucket in the corner. However, it's important not to store it in overly damp places (such as a bathroom or under the sink) as it may become mouldy.

  • Ensure that the bucket is not exposed to direct sunlight, protected from freezing temperatures, and not exposed to rainwater.

  • The worms can survive between 5-30°C, but the ideal temperature range is 10-28°C.

  • If the worms encounter unfavorable conditions (extreme heat, excessive moisture, or excessive dryness), they will try to escape and surface in the compost. Therefore, it is advisable to initially open the bucket daily and later every 2-3 days to check if everything is in order.

Now let's see how it works:

  • Feed the worms with accumulated green waste every 2-3 days, but make sure not to exceed a maximum of 5-6 kg of green waste per week.

  • During the 2-3 days (while collecting), store the green waste in a sealed container (to prevent flies and other insects), preferably in the refrigerator. The idea is to let things dry out a bit before they go into the compost, as it helps prevent the rotting and moulding of the waste.

  • After adding the green waste to the compost, cover it with a little soil (or already prepared compost from the bucket) to prevent fruit flies from settling on top.

  • Every 2-3 weeks, manually turn the compost to prevent excessive compaction at the bottom, as it can make the worms sluggish.

  • If the content of the bucket seems too wet, temporarily avoid adding fruits to the compost and instead add wood chips or natural paper, which will absorb the excess moisture and decompose.

  • If the soil appears too dry (drier than bagged potting soil), lightly sprinkle it with water.

  • If fruit flies appear and infest the bucket, removing the egg-laying parts (discard them in the trash) and setting up fruit fly traps is advisable.

  • If mould appears in the compost, it is recommended to remove it and discard it. Mould usually forms on moist organic matter that is not covered by soil (e.g., coffee grounds, tea bags).

  • It is a misconception that worm composting produces a foul odor from decomposing vegetables. Compost typically has an earthy smell, and it is only noticeable when the bucket is opened. If you detect a rotten smell, something is wrong with your compost.

  • As the green waste shrinks and breaks down into a paste-like consistency, the worms eat it and excrete the compost :) 

  • It takes 1-4 months to complete the composting process (depending on the number of worms), and the bucket is filled within 6 months. The resulting compost will have a dark, loose, humus-like texture (finer than potting soil).

  • Once the compost is ready, it should be removed and used within a maximum of 1 year (it can be stored in bags) for planting flowers, seedlings, vegetable gardens, or mixed with regular potting soil.

  • If the bucket becomes full, another level can be added by placing a new perforated bucket inside the existing one. The worms will migrate there.

  • The liquid produced by the worms

 

Utilization of the Finished Compost: 

● For indoor planting: mix ¼ compost with ¾ potting soil and plant the new plant in it. 

● For outdoor planting: dig a hole in the ground, place the plant and compost in it, then cover it up. 

● For existing plants, simply spread the compost around them and water it.

 

COMPOSTABLE GREEN WASTE

The worms are essentially vegan; they don't like any meat or animal-derived products, nor do they like rotten, worm-infested, or mouldy food!

 

YES, COMPOSTABLE: 

● Vegetable and fruit peels, cores, and seeds (avoid the fleshy parts of onions and citrus fruits, or use them sparingly) 

● Crushed and dried eggshells (dried in the oven or under the sun to prevent molding) 

● Used tea bags and tea leaves (dried) 

● Coffee grounds (dried and crumbled) 

● Droppings of herbivorous small animals (rabbits, hamsters, etc.) 

● Wood chips

 

NOT COMPOSTABLE: 

● Moldy, rotten, or worm-infested items (cut out the mouldy parts and discard them, the rest can go into the compost) 

● Pits of stone fruits (apricots, plums, etc.) 

● Droppings of carnivorous animals (dogs, cats, etc.) 

● Food contaminated with oil, butter, vinegar, or spices (e.g., oily salad remnants, buttered bread crusts) 

● Cooked food 

● Meat and fish 

● Excessive citrus fruits or onions

 

From now on, living in an apartment is no longer an excuse because you can compost anywhere. Dive right in and let's see how your composting setup turns out!

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